Magnetic Message Board
3/4” Pine (4 pieces total, 2 short and 2 long - 2 1/4” x 40 1/2” and 2 1/4” x 16”)
Backboard: 3/16” x 12 1/4” x 36 3/4”
Magnetic surface: 12 1/4” x 36 3/4”
Table or handsaw
Step 1: Size everything up
The first step involves sizing up and cutting your frame. Using a table or handsaw, simply measure and cut to your specific length and width. Then, on both ends of all four frames, prepare 3/8" x 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" lap joints.
Step 2: Jazz up the joints
A small but important detail is how to decorate or highlight the joints. Consider a routed V-groove rather than trying to hide them. One option is running a 45° chamfer (beveled edge) around the perimeter of all the forward-facing edges, which creates an attractive look with matching grooves.
Step 3: Seal the deal
Assemble your frame by applying glue to all joint surfaces. C-clamp each corner and tighten a web clamp around the entire frame. After measuring to ensure that the frame is square - by comparing two diagonal measurements from corner to corner - tighten the C-clamps and wipe off any excess glue.
Step 4: Go around back
When your glue has dried, loosen and remove the clamps. Then rout a 3/8"-wide rabbet (recess) around the back inside edge (to hold your sheet metal and backer board). Square off the rabbet's corners with a chisel and adjust the depth to match the combined thickness of the backboard and sheet metal. Be sure to add an extra 3/16" to 1/4" for a bead of caulking, which will secure the sheet metal to the frame.
Step 5: Top it off
Apply your finish. A good option for a base is pigment-free natural stain to bring out the grain of your wood. Follow this with a few coats of polyurethane as a protective top layer.
Cut your sheet metal and backer board to size, then put the two pieces into the frame. Follow this by running a bead of silicone caulking around the perimeter (which will hold the sheet metal and backer board in place). Finally, install hooks and wire to hang the frame—either vertically or horizontally.